Away Days 2019

AWW Away Days 2019. Return to the Fishermen´s Trail.

Since the last walking of Round the Corner in 2012, members of the AWW have taken themselves off to a number of locations further north or east for three or four days every November. This year marked a return to the very first of those expeditions, harking back to 2013. The route taken this time was not quite the same, but most of it was a repeat. We were so serious about route finding that first time that we sent advance parties to recce the way, two people for each day. The west coast trails are so well marked, however, that there is no longer any need for such elaboration.

Away Days History

2013   Trilho dos Pescadores

  Small group from a large number, with dear Rosie.

2014   Trilho Historico (rained off second and third days)

  The sun shone on that first day, but it didn´t last!

2015   Trilho Historico completed

   Lunch on Day 2, just before we made a stupid navigational error.

2016   Sierra de Aracena

   The gang about to climb a steep and prickly hillside.

2017   Marvao

   The Marvao Group.

2018   Torres Vedras

  Not sure Miriam wants to remember this.....

Having walked the Trilho Historico twice, once in the middle of some of the worst weather we have ever experienced, it was decided to repeat the Trilho dos Pescadores, which for the most part hugs the coast. We were rewarded with typical AWW away days weather, cool and bright save for a couple of heavy squalls on the last day. The party for that first expedition numbered into the high twenties. This time we were a maximum of 19, dwindling for various reasons to as few as 10 on one stretch. We walked three sections of roughly 20 kilometres, on the 12^th, 13^th and 14^th of November, staying at various hotels in Vila Nova de Milfontes for four nights, and eating at different places each evening. We used a local taxi service to ferry us around, which they did with great efficiency.

The Sections: Day 1 Porto Covo to Milfontes

                           Day 2 Milfontes to Cavaleiro

                           Day 3  Cavaleiro to Azenha do Mar.

The Party.

Ros, Geoff and Sue, Ian and Margaret, Eileen, Bob and Maggie, Ken and Miriam, Jim and Gill, Nick and Dolores, Marian, Frank M, Theo and Manuela and David. Bica came along to keep Ken and Miriam in order, and behaved impeccably throughout.

The Story. (as told by the organiser)

All travelled to Milfontes under their own steam, arriving at different times during the afternoon. I arrived around lunchtime, as I wanted to visit the two restaurants I had booked, to confirm our presence. I should have had a warning at that point that something was amiss. One of the two was closed, but it was open the following day, so that was OK. The other one, the Dunas Mil was open, but seemed not to remember any booking. However, they agreed to take us anyway. It was only during the evening when we were sitting down to eat, that I received phone calls from another restaurant asking about our reservation. As one or two people suspected at the time, I had in the course of quite complicated arrangements got two places mixed up, and we should have been at the HS Duna Parque instead. Oh dear. In the event we had a very good meal at the Dunas Mil, probably better than the one I had reserved to be honest.

  Where we ate.

  Where I had reserved.

Reason for that last remark? We actually gathered for pre-meal drinks at the Duna Parque, and found ourselves subjected to the most bizarre ordering and payment system I have ever encountered. We couldn´t pay the barman, but were given tickets and had to wander into the bowels of the hotel to pay at a different point. It all seemed rather chaotic, and the surroundings were not brilliant, so maybe my error saved us from something unpleasant.

All subsequently scattered to their various lodgings ready for the announced 09.00 start the following morning. I have to say at this point that the whole party was extremely punctual throughout the week, which made my job very easy.

Walk Day 1

  The Starting 18, + 1 behind the camera.

The taxis picked us up outside the Duna Parque (!) at the appointed time, and we drove to Porto Covo. It would have been good to stay there as we did on two previous occasions, but the logistics did not allow. The pretty little resort looked if anything even more closed up than in previous years, but we had no time to see very much, as we headed down the main street and further down to the harbour, picking up the Pescadores route as we did so.

Crossing the stream, we headed up onto the cliffs for the first time. This first day was new to everyone, as on our previous expedition we had started from Milfontes. Even the first 3k to the Ilha do Pessegueiro was new territory, as when we did the Trilho Historico we had walked the inland route to this point. 

  Walking the beach towards Ilha de Pessegueira

Gill Crusoe and Frank Friday. But who has been before them?

  Happiness is a good walk.

Arriving opposite the Ilha, we noticed, those of us with previous experience, the improved beach catering facilities, something which we noted several times over the three days. Some took advantage, giving the rest the opportunity to look over at the island with its ruined fort and the newer defences on the mainland.

From here, the trail followed a mix of wide tracks and narrow paths through the dunes and rocky clifftops. There was a lot of loose sand underfoot, which made for tiring walking, and some sections took us well away from the sea, behind high dunes, but when we did get to the coast, the views were spectacular, and these vistas helped us to cope with the tough going. I had planned one or two dropout points, but nobody fell by the wayside which was good

            We walked with these views for most of the time.

Reaching a point five or six k from Milfontes, a small number took an inland alternative to try to escape the sand, while the rest ploughed on round the last wide headland to reach the town. By this time the group was widely spaced out, and most headed straight for their bases. I had a call from Ros who had taken the alternative  to say that they had found a suitable place for refreshment, but in the end only five or six folk gathered there. (I had to retrace my steps, having passed the beach café they had found) A very pleasant half hour was spent winding down from the day.

The restaurant for our second evening was a tiny place only just round the corner from my digs. Tasca do Largo again proved a most acceptable eating place. They had a record of our choices which was unusual enough, and everyone got what they had ordered. And so to bed.

Tasca do Largo.

Walking Day 2.

The Pescadores route starts in the middle of Milfontes but, unless you take the ferry, you have to walk out of town to the long bridge over the Rio Mira and then along the main road for some distance before reaching the track to take you back to the coast. So we took our cars to the far side of the bridge and walked from there.

            The graffiti was there in 2013, but it has been improved.

Leaving the road, we walked the very pleasant meadow and woodland path down to the estuary, and looked back across to Milfontes. The last time we passed this way, in 2013, Otter was with us, and even though it was only a couple of k into the walk, he and some others decided to take advantage of the beach café. This time a more disciplined crew gave it a wide berth, and we continued on our merry way.

The first part of the coastal walk is very easy going on a wide track, and we made very good time. After that the dunes and rocks reappeared, and by the time we reached the lunch stop at Almograve, the strain was telling on some members of the group. A fairly lengthy lunch period was taken, and some decided that this was far enough for the day, determining to call the taxis and return to Milfontes. The rest returned to the coast, taking a slight short cut, and continued along this beautiful coastline to Cavaleiro. We overshot the predicted distance by around 1.5k, which made this a particularly tiring section. Café Adelia was a very welcome sight, and we just had time for a drink before the taxis turned up to take us back to base.


  The Mira Estuary

Bica got tired of waiting for us

Evening meal on this occasion was OK for some but a disaster for others. The choice of restaurants is not huge at this time of the year, but one had been located by some of the non walkers on the main road out of town. We were served after some difficulty by a couple of young men who had a slightly aggressive air about them, and while most eventually got their food, Ken was left with nothing! He bore it with surprising tolerance, and I never did hear how he got anything to eat that night. Meanwhile Manuela and Theo had arrived at the same place, but left for other pastures after being told there would be a long wait. Very strange.

Walking Day 3.

We had to take the taxis back to Cavaleiro to start our last day, but this went just as smoothly as before. The group was still 15 strong at this point, in spite of the tough going. The underfoot continued to be quite demanding in some sections, but the main difference today was the undulation in the land, which had not been so marked earlier. This produced some of the most remarkable sights and views of the week, with glimpses down steep ravines to the boiling sea. Lunch was taken at the largely deserted resort of Zambujeira do Mar. Again, the catering facilities had developed considerably since our previous visit, but most were closed. The strangest thing was the uniformity of the café and restaurant frontages, all plate glass and sombre grey paintwork. We enjoyed (after some discussion) a pleasant meal and chat.

At this point there were defections once more as some decided that the half day was enough. The taxis were forewarned, and ten walkers set off on the final leg to Azenha do Mar. This stretch seemed to go quite quickly, ending with a detour across farmland, avoiding the final bit of coastline, before reaching this small and most forlorn looking little settlement. The main feature was the wind, which reached severe gale at times, threatening to blow us to America, accompanied by a couple of rain squalls that had us drenched within seconds. The strength of the wind, plus some welcome sunshine, dried us out quickly. We had little hope of finding the only restaurant open in Azenha, and this proved to be the case, but unexpectedly we found a café overlooking the sea, already decked out with Christmas baubles, where we were able to enjoy a very welcome drink before the taxis arrived ahead of time to take us back.

Sue got a bit of stick for this outfit.

The End

Once more, a restaurant had been sought out by the stay at homes, this time a small place on the way to the estuary with an upstairs dining room, run by a lady which at times seemed mystified by our presence and our questions. The meal however was really good, and it was a shame in many ways that a number of the group had had to leave early, for one reason or another. I draw a veil over the end of the evening, which was unfortunate to say the least.

Two events which I have omitted, because at this distance in time and with a memory clogged with four days of intense effort and almost 76 years of operation I simply cannot place accurately: We were invited, on either the second or third evening, for pre dinner drinks at the hotel where most were staying, the Guarda Rios. We partook of wine, beer and even stronger drinks some of which it seemed were on tap for residents and guests. Most enjoyable, but it meant that we were quite well oiled, as they say, before the meal began!

The other little memory is of myself, Ros, Maggie and Bob finding a drinking opportunity in a place that was a combination of beer shop and launderette, occupied by several young men who seemed not at all surprised to see four foreigners playing dominoes in their watering hole. Maybe one of the others can remind me just when that nice little interlude took place.

This was, for me at any rate, a very pleasant return to the west coast, and a reminder of why this has become such a popular walking route. I surprised myself in being able to complete all three days, but then I immediately slumped into a vicious attack of flu! Special mention to Ros, only a few months out from hip surgery, for coping with so much sand, and to Eileen, certainly the most advanced in years of the group, for completing so much of this tough walk. 

Another part of the tradition around these Away Days has been Sue Hill´s Odes. Here is her take on our 2019 expedition:

Fishermen’s Trail

We’ve just walked part of the Fishermen’s Trail.

Ooooooh, all that sand I heard some wail,

It was hard to get lost with the sea on our right

With those roaring waves, such a pretty sight.

On Day One from Porto Covo to Milfontes 19 did walk

Where there was the usual gossip and talk.

Unfortunately Ken over did go

Managing to scratch his elbow.

Ros found the going tough

And she decided she’d had enough

Dear Frank went back with her

Without so much as a murmur.

On Day Two Gill and Jim went home

Leaving 15 the Trail to roam.

Nicholas and Dolores were the other two

Who didn’t join the happy crew.

Eileen forgot to bring either pole

Frank lent her his, he’s such a  kind soul.

Fifteen walked from Milfontes to Almograve

But now our number did almost halve.

Ros, Eileen, Manuela and Theo

By taxi to Milfontes they did go.

The rest carried on with the stroll

And made it to Cavaleiro, which was their goal.

We had a drink at cafe Adella                           

But this time without our friend Manuela!

Day Three saw Nicholas and Dolores leave us

Something they did without any fuss.

We walked from Cavaleiro to Zambujeira do Mar

Which, for some, proved to be too far.

After stopping for lunch and a drink

It gave us all time to think.

Ros, Eileen, Ken, Miriam and Frank

Went off to find the taxi rank.

The last bit had more hills and less sand

Walked by the hearty little band.

Ten completed the walk to Azenha do Mar

They definitely all deserved a star!

David, you organised three away days

Where we had beautiful views in the sun’s rays.

Thank you so much for arranging once more

And I hope you didn’t find it too much of a chore.