The Story. (as told by the organiser)
All travelled
to Milfontes under their own
steam, arriving at different times during the afternoon. I arrived around
lunchtime, as I wanted to visit the two restaurants I had booked, to confirm
our presence. I should have had a warning at that point that something was
amiss. One of the two was closed, but it was open the following day, so that
was OK. The other one, the Dunas Mil was open, but seemed not to remember any
booking. However, they agreed to take us anyway. It was only during the evening
when we were sitting down to eat, that I received phone calls from another
restaurant asking about our reservation. As one or two people suspected at the
time, I had in the course of quite complicated arrangements got two places
mixed up, and we should have been at the HS Duna Parque instead. Oh dear. In
the event we had a very good meal at the Dunas Mil, probably better than the
one I had reserved to be honest.
Where we ate.
Where I had reserved.
Reason for that
last remark? We actually gathered for pre-meal drinks at the Duna Parque, and
found ourselves subjected to the most bizarre ordering and payment system I
have ever encountered. We couldn´t pay the barman, but were given tickets and
had to wander into the bowels of the hotel to pay at a different point. It all
seemed rather chaotic, and the surroundings were not brilliant, so maybe my
error saved us from something unpleasant.
All subsequently
scattered to their various lodgings ready for the announced 09.00 start the
following morning. I have to say at this point that the whole party was
extremely punctual throughout the week, which made my job very easy.
Walk Day 1
The Starting 18, + 1 behind the camera.
The taxis picked
us up outside the Duna Parque (!) at the appointed time, and we drove to Porto
Covo. It would have been good to stay there as we did on two previous
occasions, but the logistics did not allow. The pretty little resort looked if
anything even more closed up than in previous years, but we had no time to see
very much, as we headed down the main street and further down to the harbour,
picking up the Pescadores route as we did so.
Crossing the stream,
we headed up onto the cliffs for the first time. This first day was new to
everyone, as on our previous expedition we had started from Milfontes. Even the
first 3k to the Ilha do Pessegueiro was new territory, as when we did the
Trilho Historico we had walked the inland route to this point.
Walking the beach towards Ilha de Pessegueira
Gill Crusoe and Frank Friday. But who has been before them?
Happiness is a good walk.
Arriving
opposite the Ilha, we noticed, those of us with previous experience, the
improved beach catering facilities, something which we noted several times over
the three days. Some took advantage, giving the rest the opportunity to look
over at the island with its ruined fort and the newer defences on the mainland.
From here, the
trail followed a mix of wide tracks and narrow paths through the dunes and
rocky clifftops. There was a lot of loose sand underfoot, which made for tiring
walking, and some sections took us well away from the sea, behind high dunes,
but when we did get to the coast, the views were spectacular, and these vistas
helped us to cope with the tough going. I had planned one or two dropout
points, but nobody fell by the wayside which was good
We walked with these views for most of the time.
Reaching a point
five or six k from Milfontes, a small number took an inland alternative to try
to escape the sand, while the rest ploughed on round the last wide headland to
reach the town. By this time the group was widely spaced out, and most headed
straight for their bases. I had a call from Ros who had taken the alternative to say that they had found a suitable place for refreshment, but in
the end only five or six folk gathered there. (I had to retrace my steps,
having passed the beach café they had found) A very pleasant half hour was spent
winding down from the day.
The restaurant for
our second evening was a tiny place only just round the corner from my digs.
Tasca do Largo again proved a most acceptable eating place. They had a record
of our choices which was unusual enough, and everyone got what they had
ordered. And so to bed.
Tasca do Largo.
Walking Day 2.
The Pescadores
route starts in the middle of Milfontes but, unless you take the ferry, you
have to walk out of town to the long bridge over the Rio Mira and then along
the main road for some distance before reaching the track to take you back to
the coast. So we took our cars to the far side of the bridge and walked from
there.
The graffiti was there in 2013, but it has been improved.
Leaving the road, we walked the very pleasant meadow and woodland path
down to the estuary, and looked back across to Milfontes. The last time we
passed this way, in 2013, Otter was with us, and even though it was only a
couple of k into the walk, he and some others decided to take advantage of the
beach café. This time a more disciplined crew gave it a wide berth, and we
continued on our merry way.
The first part of
the coastal walk is very easy going on a wide track, and we made very good
time. After that the dunes and rocks reappeared, and by the time we reached the
lunch stop at Almograve, the strain was telling on some members of the group. A
fairly lengthy lunch period was taken, and some decided that this was far
enough for the day, determining to call the taxis and return to Milfontes. The
rest returned to the coast, taking a slight short cut, and continued along this
beautiful coastline to Cavaleiro. We overshot the predicted distance by around
1.5k, which made this a particularly tiring section. Café Adelia was a very
welcome sight, and we just had time for a drink before the taxis turned up to
take us back to base.
The Mira Estuary
Bica got tired of waiting for us
Evening meal on
this occasion was OK for some but a disaster for others. The choice of
restaurants is not huge at this time of the year, but one had been located by
some of the non walkers on the main road out of town. We were served after some
difficulty by a couple of young men who had a slightly aggressive air about
them, and while most eventually got their food, Ken was left with nothing! He
bore it with surprising tolerance, and I never did hear how he got anything to
eat that night. Meanwhile Manuela and Theo had arrived at the same place, but left for other pastures after being told there would be a long wait. Very strange.
Walking Day 3.
We had to take the
taxis back to Cavaleiro to start our last day, but this went just as smoothly
as before. The group was still 15 strong at this point, in spite of the tough
going. The underfoot continued to be quite demanding in some sections, but the
main difference today was the undulation in the land, which had not been so
marked earlier. This produced some of the most remarkable sights and views of
the week, with glimpses down steep ravines to the boiling sea. Lunch was taken
at the largely deserted resort of Zambujeira do Mar. Again, the catering
facilities had developed considerably since our previous visit, but most were
closed. The strangest thing was the uniformity of the café and restaurant
frontages, all plate glass and sombre grey paintwork. We enjoyed (after some
discussion) a pleasant meal and chat.
At this point
there were defections once more as some decided that the half day was enough.
The taxis were forewarned, and ten walkers set off on the final leg to Azenha
do Mar. This stretch seemed to go quite quickly, ending with a detour across
farmland, avoiding the final bit of coastline, before reaching this small and
most forlorn looking little settlement. The main feature was the wind, which reached severe gale at times, threatening to blow us to America, accompanied by a couple of rain squalls that had us drenched within seconds. The strength of the wind, plus some welcome sunshine, dried us out quickly. We had little hope of finding the only
restaurant open in Azenha, and this proved to be the case, but unexpectedly we found a café
overlooking the sea, already decked out with Christmas baubles, where we were
able to enjoy a very welcome drink before the taxis arrived ahead of time to
take us back.
Sue got a bit of stick for this outfit.
The End
Once more, a
restaurant had been sought out by the stay at homes, this time a small place on
the way to the estuary with an upstairs dining room, run by a lady which at
times seemed mystified by our presence and our questions. The meal however was
really good, and it was a shame in many ways that a number of the group had had
to leave early, for one reason or another. I draw a veil over the end of the
evening, which was unfortunate to say the least.
Two events which I
have omitted, because at this distance in time and with a memory clogged with
four days of intense effort and almost 76 years of operation I simply cannot
place accurately: We were invited, on either the second or third evening, for
pre dinner drinks at the hotel where most were staying, the Guarda Rios. We
partook of wine, beer and even stronger drinks some of which it seemed were on tap for
residents and guests. Most enjoyable, but it meant that we were quite well
oiled, as they say, before the meal began!
The other little
memory is of myself, Ros, Maggie and Bob finding a drinking opportunity in a
place that was a combination of beer shop and launderette, occupied by several
young men who seemed not at all surprised to see four foreigners playing
dominoes in their watering hole. Maybe one of the others can remind me just when
that nice little interlude took place.
This was, for me
at any rate, a very pleasant return to the west coast, and a reminder of why
this has become such a popular walking route. I surprised myself in being able
to complete all three days, but then I immediately slumped into a vicious
attack of flu! Special mention to Ros, only a few months out from hip surgery,
for coping with so much sand, and to Eileen, certainly the most advanced in
years of the group, for completing so much of this tough walk.
Another part of the tradition around these Away Days has been Sue Hill´s Odes. Here is her take on our 2019 expedition:
Fishermen’s Trail
We’ve just walked part of the Fishermen’s Trail.
Ooooooh, all that sand I heard some wail,
It was hard to get lost with the sea on our right
With those roaring waves, such a pretty sight.
On Day One from Porto Covo to Milfontes 19 did walk
Where there was the usual gossip and talk.
Unfortunately Ken over did go
Managing to scratch his elbow.
Ros found the going tough
And she decided she’d had enough
Dear Frank went back with her
Without so much as a murmur.
On Day Two Gill and Jim went home
Leaving 15 the Trail to roam.
Nicholas and Dolores were the other two
Who didn’t join the happy crew.
Eileen forgot to bring either pole
Frank lent her his, he’s such a kind soul.
Fifteen walked from Milfontes to Almograve
But now our number did almost halve.
Ros, Eileen, Manuela and Theo
By taxi to Milfontes they did go.
The rest carried on with the stroll
And made it to Cavaleiro, which was their goal.
We had a drink at cafe Adella
But this time without our friend Manuela!
Day Three saw Nicholas and Dolores leave us
Something they did without any fuss.
We walked from Cavaleiro to Zambujeira do Mar
Which, for some, proved to be too far.
After stopping for lunch and a drink
It gave us all time to think.
Ros, Eileen, Ken, Miriam and Frank
Went off to find the taxi rank.
The last bit had more hills and less
sand
Walked by the hearty little band.
Ten completed the walk to Azenha do
Mar
They definitely all deserved a star!
David, you organised three away days
Where we had beautiful views in the
sun’s rays.
Thank you so much for arranging once
more
And I hope you didn’t find it too
much of a chore.
